April 10, 2026
Medically reviewed by Aisha Butt, Senior Aesthetic Practitioner — Diploma in Combined Cosmetic Dermatology, Level 7 in Injectables (Harley Academy). Reviewed on 25 April 2026.
If you’ve been researching ways to genuinely improve your skin — not just temporarily smooth it or mask it with filters — you’ve almost certainly come across microneedling. It’s one of the most well-studied, clinically validated skin treatments available today, and for good reason. Unlike many aesthetic trends that arrive with fanfare and disappear within a few years, microneedling has been used in dermatology for over two decades, with a growing body of peer-reviewed evidence supporting its effectiveness for everything from acne scars to fine lines to overall skin rejuvenation.
At Dermathetics, our medical aesthetics clinic at 8 Clerkenwell Green, Farringdon, London EC1R 0DE, we perform microneedling using professional-grade devices under the care of GMC and NMC registered practitioners. In this guide, we’ll explain exactly how microneedling works, what it can (and can’t) treat, what to expect during and after a session, and why clinical-grade microneedling is a fundamentally different experience from anything you can do at home.
Microneedling — also known as collagen induction therapy (CIT) — works by creating thousands of precisely controlled micro-injuries in the skin using a device fitted with ultra-fine, sterile needles. These micro-channels are tiny enough that they heal rapidly, but deep enough to trigger the body’s natural wound-healing cascade.
That cascade unfolds in three overlapping phases. In the inflammatory phase (immediately post-treatment), the body sends growth factors, platelets, and white blood cells to the treated area. In the proliferative phase (days to weeks), fibroblasts begin producing new collagen and elastin — the structural proteins responsible for skin firmness, elasticity, and resilience. Finally, in the remodelling phase (weeks to months), the newly formed collagen matures and organises, gradually improving skin texture, tone, and tightness from within.
The result is skin that looks and feels genuinely healthier — not because something has been layered on top of it, but because the skin itself has been stimulated to regenerate.
One of the reasons microneedling has become so widely adopted in clinical practice is its versatility. At Dermathetics, we use microneedling to address a broad range of skin concerns.
This is where microneedling has some of its strongest clinical evidence. Rolling scars and shallow boxcar scars respond particularly well because the controlled micro-injuries stimulate collagen production in the depressed areas, gradually filling them from below. Multiple studies have shown significant improvement in atrophic acne scarring after a course of 3–6 sessions, with results continuing to develop for months after the final treatment.
The collagen and elastin stimulated by microneedling directly addresses the structural decline that causes fine lines — particularly around the forehead, eyes, and mouth. Unlike injectable treatments that fill or relax wrinkles from outside, microneedling improves the skin’s own architecture. It’s an excellent option for patients who want a natural, gradual improvement without the use of toxins or fillers.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, sun damage, and melasma can all benefit from microneedling. The treatment accelerates the turnover of pigmented cells in the upper layers of the skin while stimulating fresh, evenly pigmented skin cells from below. Importantly, microneedling is one of the safer options for treating pigmentation in darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick IV–VI), because it doesn’t rely on heat or light energy that can trigger further pigmentation.
While microneedling doesn’t physically shrink pores, the increase in collagen and elastin around the pore structure causes them to appear tighter and less visible. Many patients notice a significant improvement in pore appearance after just 2–3 sessions.
Even patients without a specific skin concern often choose microneedling simply because of the overall improvement it delivers in skin quality. The treatment produces smoother, more refined texture, improved hydration (the micro-channels allow better absorption of serums and active ingredients), and a visible glow that develops over the weeks following treatment.
Microneedling has shown promising results for stretch marks, particularly newer ones that still have some colour. The collagen remodelling process can improve both the texture and the appearance of stretch marks on the body, though multiple sessions are typically required.
Understanding what to expect can make the experience far more comfortable, so here’s a step-by-step walkthrough of a typical microneedling appointment at our Farringdon clinic.
Consultation and skin assessment. Every new patient begins with a thorough consultation. Your practitioner will assess your skin type, discuss your concerns and goals, review your medical history, and determine whether microneedling is the right treatment for you — or whether an alternative or combination approach would be more effective.
Preparation. On the day of treatment, your skin is thoroughly cleansed and a topical anaesthetic cream is applied to the treatment area. This numbing cream is left on for 20–30 minutes to ensure maximum comfort during the procedure.
Treatment. Your practitioner uses a professional-grade microneedling device to treat the skin in a systematic pattern, adjusting the needle depth based on the area being treated and the specific concern being addressed. For example, deeper settings may be used over scar tissue, while shallower settings are used around the delicate eye area. A typical full-face session takes 20–30 minutes.
Post-treatment. A calming serum or hyaluronic acid is applied immediately after treatment to hydrate the skin and support healing. Your practitioner will provide you with full aftercare instructions. You’ll leave the clinic with some redness — similar to mild sunburn — which typically subsides within 24–48 hours.
The rise of at-home derma rollers and microneedling “pens” sold online has created a widespread misconception that microneedling can be safely and effectively performed at home. The reality is quite different.
Needle depth. At-home rollers typically have needles of 0.25–0.5mm — too shallow to trigger meaningful collagen induction. Clinical devices used at Dermathetics can reach depths of 1.0–2.5mm, which is where the real regenerative response begins. This depth requires proper training to use safely.
Precision and consistency. Professional devices deliver needles vertically into the skin at a controlled speed and depth, creating clean micro-channels that heal quickly and trigger an optimal collagen response. Derma rollers enter the skin at an angle as they roll, causing more surface trauma and less effective penetration — increasing the risk of irritation with less therapeutic benefit.
Sterility and safety. Clinical microneedling is performed using single-use, sterile needle cartridges in a controlled clinical environment. At-home rollers are reused — often without adequate sterilisation — creating a real risk of infection and cross-contamination.
Customisation. Our practitioners adjust needle depth zone-by-zone across the face based on your specific skin concerns. An at-home device cannot offer this level of tailoring.
The bottom line: at-home tools may offer mild exfoliation benefits, but they cannot replicate the collagen-stimulating effects of professional microneedling. For genuine skin remodelling, clinical treatment is essential.
At Dermathetics, we frequently combine microneedling with complementary treatments to enhance results. Some of the most effective combination protocols include:
Microneedling + PRP (Platelet-Rich Plasma). Often called the “vampire facial,” this involves applying your own concentrated platelet-rich plasma to the skin immediately after microneedling. The micro-channels created during treatment allow the growth factors in PRP to penetrate deeper into the skin, significantly amplifying the regenerative response. This combination is particularly powerful for acne scarring and overall skin rejuvenation.
Microneedling + Polynucleotides. Polynucleotide therapy (PDRN) is one of the most exciting developments in regenerative aesthetics. When combined with microneedling, polynucleotides stimulate fibroblast activity and promote deep tissue repair. This combination is excellent for patients seeking enhanced skin quality, hydration, and elasticity.
Microneedling + Chemical Peels. Alternating microneedling sessions with chemical peels addresses both the deeper structural concerns (collagen, scar depth) and the surface-level issues (pigmentation, dullness, texture) simultaneously. Your practitioner will design a protocol that sequences these treatments for optimal results.
Learn more about PRP at Dermathetics →
Learn more about polynucleotides at Dermathetics →
One of microneedling’s significant advantages over more aggressive resurfacing treatments is its relatively short recovery time. Here’s what to expect:
Day 1 (day of treatment): Skin will appear red and feel warm, similar to mild sunburn. Some patients experience slight swelling, particularly around the eyes and forehead. Avoid makeup, active skincare, and direct sun exposure.
Days 2–3: Redness fades significantly. Skin may feel dry or tight as the micro-channels close and healing accelerates. Continue using only gentle, hydrating products as advised by your practitioner.
Days 4–7: Most patients can return to their full skincare routine and makeup. Skin begins to feel smoother and more refined as the initial healing phase completes.
Weeks 2–12: This is where the real transformation happens. New collagen and elastin continue to form and mature beneath the surface. Improvements in texture, tone, and scar appearance develop gradually over this period.
Key aftercare rules: Wear SPF 50 daily for at least two weeks post-treatment. Avoid retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, and vitamin C for 5–7 days. Do not pick or scratch the skin. Stay well hydrated.
Medical-grade, practitioner-led treatment. Every microneedling session at Dermathetics is performed by a GMC or NMC registered doctor or nurse. This means proper skin assessment, safe technique, appropriate depth selection, and the clinical judgement to adapt treatment in real time. We are not a high-street salon — we are a medically-led clinic.
Personalised protocols. We don’t offer one-size-fits-all packages. Your treatment plan is designed around your specific skin concerns, scar types, skin tone, and goals. Needle depth, number of sessions, and any combination treatments are tailored to you.
Central London location. Our clinic at 8 Clerkenwell Green is a one-minute walk from Farringdon station (Elizabeth line, Circle line, Metropolitan line, Thameslink), making us easy to reach from across London — the City, Islington, Hoxton, Barbican, Shoreditch, Holborn, and beyond.
Transparent pricing and honest advice. We’ll tell you exactly how many sessions we recommend, what results to realistically expect, and what it will cost — before you commit to anything.
The first step is a free consultation at our Farringdon clinic. During this appointment, your practitioner will assess your skin, discuss your goals, and recommend whether microneedling — on its own or in combination with other treatments — is the right path for you.
Dermathetics | 8 Clerkenwell Green, Farringdon, London EC1R 0DE
020 7362 0839
Book your free consultation →
Most patients benefit from a course of 3–6 sessions, spaced 4–6 weeks apart. The exact number depends on your skin concern — acne scarring typically requires more sessions than general skin rejuvenation. Your practitioner will give you a personalised recommendation during your consultation.
With topical anaesthetic applied 20–30 minutes before treatment, most patients describe the sensation as a mild prickling or vibration rather than pain. Sensitivity varies by area — the forehead and jawline tend to be less sensitive, while the nose and upper lip can be more noticeable. Overall, the vast majority of patients tolerate the treatment comfortably.
A full-face microneedling session typically takes 20–30 minutes of active treatment time, plus 20–30 minutes for numbing cream application beforehand. Allow approximately one hour for your total appointment time.
Yes. Microneedling is one of the safest skin rejuvenation treatments for darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick IV–VI) because it does not use heat or light energy, which can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Our practitioners take extra care with depth settings and aftercare protocols for patients with darker skin.
We recommend avoiding makeup for 24 hours after treatment to allow the micro-channels to close and reduce the risk of irritation or infection. After 24 hours, you can typically return to your normal makeup routine. Mineral makeup is preferred for the first few days as it is less likely to irritate healing skin.
Microneedling works by creating controlled micro-injuries to stimulate collagen production in the deeper layers of the skin. Chemical peels work by dissolving the outer layers of skin to accelerate cell turnover. Both are effective — they simply work through different mechanisms. For many patients, combining the two in an alternating protocol delivers the best results.
Yes. Microneedling of the scalp has shown promising results for stimulating hair growth, particularly when combined with PRP therapy. The micro-injuries stimulate blood flow and growth factor release in the scalp, which can support hair follicle health. Ask about our hair restoration protocols during your consultation.
You may notice an immediate improvement in skin radiance and smoothness within a few days of your first session. However, the most significant results — particularly for acne scars, fine lines, and skin tightening — develop over 4–12 weeks as new collagen matures. Results continue to improve with each subsequent session in your treatment course.
Dermathetics is a medical aesthetics clinic at 8 Clerkenwell Green, Farringdon, London EC1R 0DE. All treatments are performed by GMC and NMC registered clinicians. Book your free consultation online or call 020 7362 0839.
